Green Space: Do some research to give trees the best chance for survival
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By LAURA FRANTA
Wednesday, June 6, 2007 4:23 PM CDT
Special to the Herald
It can be tough enough for a tree to survive without being sentenced to an early grave by planting mistakes. They are not only faced with numerous pests and diseases today, but numerous threats loom on the horizon in the future. They also face threats from mechanical means such as construction work and cuts from lawnmowers.
By using proper planting methods you can reduce your trees’ chances for failure and give it a chance to reach its full potential. It may not always be obvious right away that a tree is set up for failure from incorrect planting methods, as it can sometimes take years for a problem to show up.
Years from now one might wonder why a tree that was once healthy appears to be dying or a tree may suddenly fall where there is no apparent wind. Following the right steps for planting will help reduce some of the risks your tree will face.
Most people associate Arbor Day with tree planting time as noted by the large number of trees that are planted during this period. Spring and fall are the best times for planting.
Spring planting season runs from April to June while the trees are still dormant, but after the frost is out of the ground and dried out from melting snows and frost. Fall planting season runs from late September to early November soon after the leaves have dropped.
Fall is usually considered the best time to plant trees as more energy can be used towards establishing roots and not towards coming out of dormancy.
Before planting a tree, there are a few things to consider. Go to the site where you plan to plant your tree. Look up to see if there are any overhead utility lines. If so, you may wish to choose a small tree or shrub. If you have your mind set on a larger tree, you will need to select a new site.
You will also need to look around to make sure your tree has plenty of room when it reaches maturity.
In making your selection, be sure that it is suitable for your hardiness zone (this area is Zone 4). Not all trees for sale in a garden center may be hardy for your area.
Finally, call Diggers Hotline at (800) 242-8511 to check for any underground utility lines.
Trees can be purchased in one of following ways: balled and burlapped (B&B), bare root or containerized. Balled and burlapped trees are larger trees and more than three years old. Their roots and a ball of soil are wrapped in burlap held together by twine or wire.
Containerized trees are sold by the majority of nurseries and usually transplant well as the roots remain relatively undisturbed. Trees shipped through the mail arrive as bare root trees. Some nurseries sell them by this method as well. When shipped through the mail they are generally wrapped in some moist absorbent material such as sawdust to keep the roots from drying out. Be sure to keep the roots moist if you cannot immediately plant it.
Digging a proper hole is critical to the future survival of your tree. The most common mistake made when planting trees is digging a hole too deep which can deplete the roots of oxygen and a hole too narrow so that the roots are restricted from expanding to seek nourishment and properly anchor the tree.
Planting trees in holes that are too deep and narrow can cause girdling roots as they grow, eventually strangling itself. Without proper root expansion caused by too narrow a hole the tree will not be properly anchored and not have the support needed to stay upright. Thus, it could collapse on a day without even the slightest breeze.
To plant your tree, dig a hole that is two to three times the diameter of the roots. A wider hole is needed for soil that is highly compacted. To figure the depth of the hole look for the root flare, which is the bulge just above the roots where they begin to branch away from the tree. In a containerized tree, you might need to brush the soil away to find the root flare.
Another common planting mistake is to plant a tree at least as deep as it is in the container. Sometimes trees get planted too deep in the container. Extra backfill used to decrease the depth of the hole can cause the tree to sink too deep in the soil.
The roots of trees typically spread out more horizontally than vertically. If planting a tree in a poorly drained clay soil, be sure to rough up the bottom of the hole to avoid creating a smooth barrier which prevents water from draining properly.
Do not add any amendments to try to improve the soil at planting time. Doing so creates a cozy environment that the roots will not want to leave and eventually end up girdling the tree.
Before planting the tree, take the opportunity to inspect the roots and prune any broken or damaged roots. Try to leave as much of the root ball intact as possible.
Also prune any branches that have become broken or damaged. If there are any double leaders, choose the more dominant one and remove the other. It is best to prune the tree while it is still small, to cause less damage.
Carefully spread the roots out. If planting containerized trees, check to see if they are potbound. Potbound roots need to be gently spread out rather than leaving compacted so that they do not develop into girdling roots.
Balled and burlapped trees need to be lifted into place by the rootball. Lifting by the trunk can cause serious damage. Any string or wire should be removed. The burlap should either be removed or at least pulled back a third of the way down from the root flare.
Once the tree is in the hole, carefully fill the hole with the original soil. Do not add any fertilizers at the time of planting. It has been found that nitrogen can actually inhibit root growth. Wait to fertilize until your tree is well established. Water well.
Thereafter, water deeply one to two times a week for a total of 1 inch rather than frequently in smaller amounts. Overwatering can lead to root damage and kill the tree.
After planting and watering your new tree, add a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch. Anything thicker than that can encourage rodents to make their home in it. Be careful not to pile mulch up around the trunk as it can cause moisture to collect and create rot. Do not use landscape fabric because the tree roots can grow into it and might be damaged when the fabric is removed.
Laura Franta inherited her love of gardening from a long line of gardeners and hort enthusiasts. She enjoys gardening, tending the yard, and watching the wildlife with her husband Paul in the Village of Lake Hallie. Reach her at talloaks@charter.net.
Green Space is a weekly feature written exclusively for The Chippewa Herald by a team of experienced gardeners in the Chippewa Valley. It addresses a variety of plant cultivation topics.
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